The majority of circular fabrics are used for Cut & Sew garments. Dias and Delkumburewatte (2008) investigated the absorbency properties of knitted structures and the importance of designing garments that both remove liquid sweat from the skin and provide tactile and sensorial comfort to the wearer. The geometry of spacer structures was analyzed and a model was created to define the capillary characteristic in the spacer yarn. Shima Seiki knitting machines with CAD system are also available today. Knitting machines made by STOLL are similar to the machines made by Shima Sieki. (2016) discussed thermal insulation and properties of textile fabrics. This is when a slight twist that can develop in the actual fabric construction during the knitting. The Shima Seiki company invented the Wholegarment machine (SWG-V) having 518 gauge (needles per inch) and knitting width ranging from 50 to 80 inches, which uses a latch needle for loop transference. According to the knitting process, needles can be put in and out of action during the knitting operation. As stated earlier, FabRoc yarn is elastic by nature, which challenges knitting process, as FabRoc yarns tend to stretch during knitting and could break due to their low breaking strength. The earlier models of this machinery were considered too restrictive in terms of programming; however, in the last decade this technology has advanced significantly. The SM9-ST is a special version with diameters of 16 and a 24 gauge. By connecting two devices in series, a LED was successfully lit up. Copyright The Author(s) 2020, Elsevier Ltd. We use cookies to help provide and enhance our service and tailor content and ads. The major factor that brought weft-knitted garments to the forefront of fashion was computer control of electronic needle selection on machines using flatbed technology. Computerized flatbed knitting machines incorporate CAD (Computer-aided design) systems, as shown in Figure 6.10, which allow designs to be made on a computer and then transferred to the machine for knitting. The SWG-X for fine-gauge knitwear has either 12 or 15 gauge and uses a slide needle and a pull-down device. High quality garments can now be produced at competitive prices owing to revolutionary garment production systems feasible with presser foot. The saved data can be transferred to the Shima Seiki knitting machine, which can be operated in the required design. Quick response, lower MOQs and production set up times,resulting in higher efficiencies. A machine with four needle beds has been developed to realise double knitted structure with increased facility. Holding down sinkers and special take-down systems. Higher density (D=2.5 and above) is preferred for getting higher production but it requires a major modification in the machine including redesigning of stitch cam. Knit and wear flat-bed machines from STOLL use a gauge range of E2.5E9.2 and a knitting width of 7284inches. This was because they could not compete with the traditional fully fashioned machines shaping capability, or the speed achieved by circular weft knitting. The advantage of the flatbed electronic machine was that jacquard patterns previous produced using jacquard steels were now produced using punched tape electronic control. The cold side of the peltier units absorbs heat from the skin and transfers the heat to the refrigerant, which is converted to gas by the absorption of evaporative heat. (d), the 3DSF SC had a large voltage window (1.3 V), with a high areal capacitance of about 1.02 Fcm2. The Memminger system (see Figure 6.11) would deliver yarn at a predetermined yarn tension by using a motor. The machines are rudimentary and just require a source of cheap labour to produce basic garments. The STOLL markets complete garment-knitting machines known as Knit and wear. The cooling assembly for this material is shown in Fig.

This was helped by the fact that design education was catching up with the new technology (Brackenbury, 1992). Copyright 2022 Elsevier B.V. or its licensors or contributors. Various models of Stolls CMS Knit & Wear machinery are available, and programmable using M1 Plus software. In order to avoid yarn breakages and knitting difficulties, a special yarn delivery system from Memminger GmbH was used (Kennon et al., 2000) to deliver FabRoc yarn at reduced yarn tension. Benefits: low cost investment in plant and machinary, very cost effective for coarse gauge knitting and simple stripe knitting, and factory layout can be quickly re-arranged according to the customers demands. The patterns permit up to five colours plus ground colour. The knitting technology offers significant advantages over other fabric-forming systems with respect to the development of textile sensors, for example, simple preparatory processing, the process ability of a wide selection of conductive yarns, one-step garment manufacturing, and exact positioning of sensing patches in the garment. Compared to other knitting machines, a modern computerised flat-bed knitting machine has the following main capabilities: Individual needle selection. Classic knitwear styles became the vogue of womens style, with many celebrities adopting the classic fully fashioned British twinset (Gulvin, 1984).

With the aid of a special loading station, the operative can carry out a 360 control of the product. Stitch loops can be easily transferred between two needle beds. The SES-S.WG uses the standard latch needle and spring-type sinkers at the same pitch, making it possible to knit fine-gauge shaping as well as integral knitting and multiple-gauge knitting. Jacquard patterns - the 3 ways you should know. Jianfeng Wen, Hong Fu, in Energy Storage Materials, 2021. It was in 1995 when knitwear technology next came to the forefront of the textile world, as Shima Seiki introduced its Wholegarment range of machinery, and later Stoll introduced Knit & Wear. E.J. The flat bed machines are available as single bed for producing plain or single jersey structures and double bed for producing rib and purl structures. Orizio, the circular knitting machine manufacturer, has two versions: MTM/BE Bodysize and MTM/CE Bodysize. Matthew Townsend patented (1849) a modification to the earlier developed latch needle (1806) that became extensively utilised in weft circular and warp knitting machines. The needleneedle selectiontakes place by means of four or eight selector points with a monomagnet, both for weft patterns and for float stitch patterns and with cut threads. Today, the flat-bed machines versatility cannot be superseded by the other knitting technologies. All these developments influenced fashion knitwear resulting in a boom in the 1970s and 1980s, especially in the ladies fashion markets (see Section 9.4.1). For the purpose of gaining a real product, the device was then packaged by a multifunctional polyurethane (PU) based hot stamping process, as shown in Fig. 11.18 presents the concept of the TSF showing a metal wire inlaid in the middle of a rib knitted structure. Intersia garments are generally expensive and their demand is subject to the vagaries of fashion. Many researchers have been at the forefront of textile design and research which encompasses a wide range of disciplines including composite materials, electronics, and smart textiles. However, the CAD patterning of the seamless garment knitting is comparatively complicated in comparison to fully fashioned knitting due to the alternate needle selection process during knitting. However, in medium to larger diameter circular knitting machines, more number of feeders are arranged/accommodated at regular intervals for supplying more number of yarns to the needles simultaneously for achieving higher production. The mini refrigerant channels are connected to a high-pressure liquid refrigerant cylinder and to a gas receiver via polymer tubes. Flat bed machine with interlock gating is not available on account of difficulty in knitting using two sets of needles in each bed by traversing of cam carriages. Two- and three-dimensional structures as well as complete garments without any seams or joins can be produced on the latest electronic flat knitting machines and the associated design systems. 24. (a), the SPNYs were used for knitting the top and bottom conductive layers, while the polyester yarns were adopted as the inlay and connecting yarns. The cooling system consists of peltier units and mini refrigerant channels incorporated in a knitted spacer structure. The gauge is 1634. Some of these companies are Shima Seiki, Stoll, Santoni, Matec, Sangiacomo,Orizio, etc. The throttle area at the exit to individual boxes and the dimensions of the copper boxes must also be evaluated accurately to maintain the temperature of the refrigerant in the boxes, considering the pressure drop. However, the first motor-driven jacquard flat-bed machine in 1926 changed the role and contribution of this machine to fashion. During the nineteenth century, water and steam powered machinery was developed and productivity increased. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Shima Seiki introduced the glove knitting machine around this period, and 1975 saw the first fully electronic flatbed machine, the Stoll ANV. Knitwear has been utilised in fashion for many years, perhaps the first example of designer knitwear should be credited to the Elizabethans and their desire for the highly embellished finest knitted silk stockings. This eliminates the transfer spring and allows stable knitting, better quality, and higher productivity (Choi, 2005). The introduction of the presser foot to commercial machinery at ITMA in 1975 brought about a new era for patterning capabilities in flat-bed knitwear. The machine also was capable of producing integral knitwear (knitting pockets and trims as part of the knitting process) and was able to knit 3D structures due to special holding-down sinkers. Traditional British knitwear brands linked with prominent designers and, for the first time, flat-bed knitting technology and its products began challenging traditional classic manufacturing techniques. 11.19. Power V-bed flat machines are used mainly for the production of knitwear for children, women and men. 24.(b)). Benefits: incredible flexibility of design. Inspired by the structure similarity and processing compatibility, our group, for the first time, applied the flat-bed knitting machine fabricated the conductive 3DSF frame, as shown in Fig. Computer Jacquard knitting machines used at Elegant, Motorised jacquard knitting machines have been available since 1940s, but with the development of computer technology in the 1970s, knitting technology development really bloomed in the 1980s. It consists of special boards that enable processing in autoclaves of garments such as bodies, panties, etc. In small diameter circular knitting machine as well as flat bed knitting machine, generally one yarn is fed at a time to the needle for loop formation through the desired feeding system or feeder. This technology was capable of knitting an entire sweater in one process, and hence there was no requirement to join the sleeves to the body, since this was completed as part of the knitting action. The usual cause of spirality is cheaper single twist yarn which is unbalanced. How to protect Merino knits against moths - the simple way. ELEGANT KNITTING : CUSTOM MANUFACTURER OF KNITWEAR FOR CORPORATE, RUGBY & SCHOOL SWEATERS. The use of the knitting process enabled the knitted loops and stitches to be cross-linked in order to reduce resistance for heating elements made from FabRoc yarn. Delkumburewatte and Dias (2012) described a working principle of a wearable miniature cooling system investigated by us for managing heat and sweat effectively and efficiently under extreme conditions. Globally, 2 system machines are the most popular type. (Choi, 2005). The number of systems should not be confused with the number of colours possible within a garment. People are living longer and spending more time on leisure activities. Protti launched the PDE flat knitting machine, which was the first machine that used electro/mechanical needle selection. The SES-C. WG can knit coarser-gauge complete garments using compound needles (the hook and hook closing portions are separately controlled) and a take-down system using a pull-down device. Shima Sieki SDS ONE CAD is a totally integrated knit production system that allows all phases including planning, design, evaluation, and production (Spencer, 2001). To maintain a stable electrochemical property, an additional layer of the metallic Ni pre-covered on the SPNYs. Running the test rig for about 65min showed that the amount of refrigerant flow required to maintain lower temperatures varied with the heating, but it is about 850cc/min for 15W. It is suggested that the power supply must be adjusted accurately and suitable thermoelectric modules must be selected or custom-made to work continually as heat exchangers, depending on the amount of heat to be pumped. The machines are fitted with threading systems that control up to nine yarn carriers or guides per system. ), patterning facility and machine gauge. The STOLL SIRIX (M1) CAD system is a complete design, patterning, and programming system utilizing two windows to graphically develop knitting programs for STOLL machines in a similar manner to the Shima Sieki CAD system (Spencer, 2001). E. Mbise, W. Hurley, in Electronic Textiles, 2015. Although the investment is considerable, the higher quality and increased employee skill development allows Elegant to train more women into the operator positions. Santoni, part of the Lonati group, the biggest supplier of the circular knitting machinery, has 14 models. The most important feature in this system is a loop simulation program that permits quick estimation of knit structures without any kind of actual sample-making (Hunter, 2004b). Major thrusts in research and development have pressurized the industry to deliver high-performance products for the industrial and domestic markets. Power, in Advances in Apparel Production, 2008. Historically, knitwear has diversified from hosiery to underwear and, finally, outerwear. (a) the schematic diagram of the 3DSF SC frame, (b) the fabricating diagram of the 3DSF SC, (c) the SEM images of the MnO2@Ni and [emailprotected] electrodes, (d) the PU encapsulation sketch, CV curves and the abrasion test of the encapsulated device. Market growth is being influenced by the development of new fibers, new fabrics, and innovative processing technologies. UK hosiery and knitwear factories became the backdrop of the Midlands, just as spinning and weaving mills were associated with Lancashire. Absorbency into the spacer structures was modeled using the fabric parameters, the capillary radius, and the properties of water. Shima Seikis most recent machine range is the Mach 2X and Mach 2S, which claims significantly higher productivity than earlier versions of Wholegarment, and is programmed through the SDS-ONE APEX design software. Handflat machines are still widely used in developing regions such as Bangladesh, Vietnam and western China. Figure 6.8. Computerized flatbed knitting machines incorporate CAD (Computer-aided design) systems, as shown in Figure 6.10, which allow designs to be made on a computer and then transferred to the machine for knitting. Other notable developments around this time were the development of the straight bar frame (or Cottons Patent Machine), which had automatic panel shaping capability. The designers of the time optimised bold patterning, assisted by the advances in computer-controlled knitting during the 1980s. Water absorbency by knitted spacer structures was experimentally investigated using a gravimetric absorbency tester to record absorbency rate, total absorbency, and time taken to saturate the structure. The next significant development came from Jedediah Strutt, who was responsible for the Derby Rib attachment (1759)more than 100years after Lees knitting frame was invented. The mini heat exchangers consisting of copper boxes and thermoelectric modules, connected with nylon tubes to make the cooling channels can provide almost equal low temperatures at all surfaces next to the skin. According to Textile Intelligence (2017), performance apparel represents one of the fastest growing sectors of the international textile and clothing industry. Fig. The FIRST (another model) uses a slide needle and a unique two-piece slide mechanism. The diameter is 21 and the gauge is 2028 (Choi, 2005). The five different variations of the machine are CMS 330 TC, CMS 340 TC, CMS 330 TC-T, CMS 330 TC-C, and CMS 340 TC-M. All the machines use latch needles (Choi, 2005). Flat-bed knitting machines historically were used to produce trims. The textile industry can be credited with providing the first examples of a factory system worldwide (Jones, 2002). Ethical Manufacturing - ask the hard questions. This made flatbed weft-knitting technology extremely versatile and attractive to high street retailers and designers, who utilised the innovation in technology to develop new style lines that were not previously possible. It all has to do with how the fabric is created on the knitting machine. New fabrics are being developed for active sports such as aerobics, athletics, ballooning, hiking, cycling, mountaineering, sailing, skiing, snowboarding, swimming, and windsurfing. But they are limited to the size of the machine diameter and so have very limited flexibility. There are 2 types of global flatbed production, Handflat machines and Computer Jacquard machines. Absorbency into the spacer structures was modeled using the fabric parameters, the capillary radius and the properties of water. Knitwear designers were able to really push the boundaries. J. McLoughlin, Roshan Paul, in High-Performance Apparel, 2018. Different types of designs ranging from 2D to 3D designs were produced (see Figure 6.8). After the war years (late 1940s), fashion generally saw a dramatic change in styling. Sometimes it is easier to think of the difference as Tee shirt knitting [Circular] and Sweater knitting [ Flatbed ]. Machines are available with up-to 152 feeders for 42 inch diameter [2]. A Study by Pawta and Mikoajczyk (2016) examined areas for investigating the innovation performance of the textile industry in Russia. N. Nawaz, R. Nayak, in Garment Manufacturing Technology, 2015. The number of yarns able to be knitted on a computer machine at a single point in time is set by the available knitting systems. In 1987, a knitting machine was developed that was equipped with variable stroke, this caused a shift in fashion especially during the 1990s. Knit, tuck and miss can be easily realised in the same knitting course. During the 1920s, knitwear took two different directions, fashion knitwear found new uses for cut and sew jersey in outerwear applications (such as dresses), and the great leisurewear boom (Brackenbury, 1992) provided a market for the more expensive classic fully fashioned shaped knitwear to thrive. For example, a 20 inch diameter circular machine with 40 feeders has a feeder density of 2. Now that patterning was perfected on the flatbed machine, attention turned to the technique of shaping panels; up to now, although shaping could be achieved on some machines, it was not cost-effective due the cam boxs inability to change direction halfway across a stroke. They are versatile, as different kinds of designs can be made on them, ranging from 2D to 3D and whole garments in which a complete seamless garment is produced directly on the machine. This allowed 3 Way knit technique Knit-Tuck-Miss possible in one traverse of the carriage, which meant infinite design possibilities. Flat-bed knitting machines are traditionally used for the production of pullovers and other outerwear garments. At Elegant we have 2, 3, 4, and 6 system knitting machines for maximum flexibility. In the same century, alternative forms of constructing knitted structures were developed, notably the Crane and Porter warp knitting machine (1775) and Decroixs patent (1798) for the circular weft-knitting machine (Spencer, 2001). This is one of the most common questions we get from customers about knitted garments. On the V-bed flat knitting machine, loop transference for performing shaping and designing structures can be performed by selecting alternate needles. There are 2 major types of knitting machines - Circular and Flatbed. They describe: the many garment applications where protection is needed against hostile environments, part of the requirement is for insulation to shield the wearer from extremes of temperature. As mentioned earlier high-performance textiles are not new but have evolved through many years of scientific research. 24. However, this makes the garment more open and less elastic, which requires the use of more elastic yarns on the seamless knitting machines.

The knitted spacer structure absorbs sweat and accumulates it to keep the skin dry. in different sizes and from different fibre compositions. So instead of increasing the machine speed, attempts are being made to increase the number of feeders in the machine. Since William Lees pioneering invention of the weft-knitting machine in 1589, there has been much development in knitting technology. Casual dressing became the vogue and knitwear was firmly established as a fashion item in the modern womans wardrobe (Brackenbury, 1999). Moreover, the tricks of the two beds should not be face to face but the tricks of one bed should be in between the tricks of the other bed to ensure that the needles will not collide while ascending to knit at the same time on both beds.

It has taken time but, slowly, complete garment production has evolved, becoming increasingly commercialised, with some retailers choosing to acknowledge this method of production on the swing tags while others are simply retailing the knitwear (perhaps without the consumer ever realising that the garment has no seams).